near Venice is this island (i'm pleased that we could go) glass masters sell small treasures in busy storefronts. an alert salesman invited us to a hidden gallery. murano's secret wonders, which we loved, and something about our appreciation of these treasures fed something in him, and made him happy. this sidestreet seemed to welcome and i had to stop and look. and i saw nothing that was beautiful, unless i tilted my head a certain way. do as i did, and tilt your head. it was so worth it. just tilt your head.