tourists come in swarms like locusts, sometimes even stripping bare ancient olive trees. souvenirs are always in demand. roads so narrow delivery mini-trucks need room to pass, pedestrians will squeeze tight against store walls. in a store, a bowl carved, she told us, from an ancient olive tree. and walking back, we saw seaside businesses, places you might sit and drink coffee, with new friends or old. didn't test the water, expected it was cold.